Martins Pilens

1. You're handed a wine list, what do you do?

I go straight to the Champagne section and order a bottle. Then I take another dive into the list, looking for hidden gems in other sections to pair later, once the food choices are made.

2. How do you know the wine you're drinking is good?

It makes me smile. Balance, complexity, length, serving temperature, and a spark of curiosity or excitement always add to the experience.

3. What is something fascinating you’ve been told over lunch?

Many lunches, many conversations, many moments — from pregnancy reveals to business successes. Everything happens around the table and an open bottle of wine.

4. In whose company do you most enjoy drinking wine?

With people who are present, calm, and focused on the wine and the moment—not distracted by something else.

5. Can you describe your ideal combination of wine, music, and setting?

I love the presence of wine in a room, especially in restaurants. A design-focused bistro or wine bar works best. Music should be consistent and atmospheric, not jumping between styles. Imperfections like from vinyl adds truth and character. For setting, I prefer dim or darker light—nothing kills wine, food, and mood faster than pharmacy-style bright lighting.

6. What sort of food would you add to the equation?

I value design, purity, and clarity on the plate. For me, food is art — and I eat with my eyes first.

7. What is the most memorable bottle of wine you’ve drank?

I’ve been lucky enough to make this question hard to answer — so many great bottles and even greater moments around them. A recent highlight that will stay forever in my memory is a bottle of Champagne Rosé 2004 from Marie-Noëlle Ledru. She is one of the icons I simply love.

8. Where did you drink it?

I drank it this April in the cellar of Marie-Noëlle Ledru, served by her personally. While the champagne was outstanding, the moment itself and her warmth made it even greater. To receive a goodbye kiss after the tasting sealed it as unforgettable. The wine world is filled with open-hearted people, and if you are one of them, moments like this happen all the time — and this is the driving force behind why I love this industry so much.

9. Is there a characteristic you look for in a wine and in a friend?

In wine, I look for character, authenticity, and confidence. With friends, I don’t choose them like I choose wines, but I’m happy to find and unlock the same qualities in them.

10. What is your approach to drinking?

Moderation and curiosity. I also pay close attention to what I order—I want to remember it even years later. And I usually do.

11. Do you apply this approach in other aspects of life?

Mostly, yes. But with food and travels, I sometimes go too far and lose moderation.

12. What shall we open next?

My own Champagne, Comète Pilens, made in collaboration with Etienne Calsac. It’s the only logical answer, of course.